Touristing Rajasthan: Pink City to rat temples and camel safaris in the desert

Hawa Mahal (its literally, just a facade…)

Sept 25, 2008

What to see in a Pink City?

In Jaipur, “the pink city”, elephants is more of the theme. They are the vehicles of the mughal royals and Jaipur is one of the homes of the Mughal empire. Our tour takes us sightseeing at all the well-known tourist joints: the Red Fort, Hawa Mahal, City Palace, a beautiful lake palace, an elephant ride…and “commission type” outlet shops for saris, clothes and jewelry

Riding elephants at the Red Fort in Jaipur

…another view of the Red Fort

Riding Baby- even elephants smile in India

The Lake Palace, Jaipur

City Palace (i’m bored to tears)

Shopping at the tourist/commission stores vs. at local markets.

and…we get further and further away from India.( this jeweler is said to be a palm reader – he reads your palm and then prescribes a piece of jewelry to bring good luck! Well, at least its not like NY and you’re being told to take baths in crystals and candles. I buy a necklace that I could have bought at Sedonas in Ward Warehouse for the same price).

Jaipur.

Watching a Bollywood film in Jaipur, India

Before leaving Jaipur in the storm we arrived, we went to the cinema to see “Singh is King”. It was starring Akshay Kumar (one of my favorite Bollywood heroes) and Katrina Kaif. A Bollywood fanatic, I saw this movie in the States as soon as it came out but this is my first time watching a foreign movie without subtitles. I suppose some aspects of foreign films aren’t hard to figure out if you’re focusing on the actor’s expressions and the scenes taking place. Afterall, good acting should cross language barriers, right? Also, Bollywood has a lot of song and dance. Still, it’s mildly frustrating to not know exactly what people are saying. Because I had seen the movie and knew what was going on,  I did a subtitle voiceover for Dan, who was trying his best to stay awake.  Surprisingly, I remembered the dialogue so could translate it pretty smoothly and to the end. Not sure if Dan stayed with me for that long…

Driving down a dark Indian Highway at night

Next stop was Bikaner. Approximately a 5-6 hour drive from Jaipur. We were trying to beat nightfall but it had overcome us. Indian roads are dark with little to no light. You’re pretty much reliant on your headlights. What’s more shocking is that Indian locals still travel by foot at night. Yes, they walk the highways, probably on their way home… But they walk. In the dark. Without flashlights. Cars can pretty much take people out if they don’t have car lights. You can barely see the pedestrians until you get up close. Kinda eerie.

Bikaner & Sacred animals you wouldn’t consider sacred.

At Deshnok’s Karni Marta Rat Temple in Bikaner, I had to walk barefoot over sacred rat pee and poop. That was the only option that allowed me enter the sacred space and witness millions of rats take free reign over an entire temple (I know what face Mom is making as you read this…). The worshipers pay homage and take care of the rodents and luckily, the term “rat” defines more “cute mouse” than the giant NYC sewer types. Even the Indian tourists are taken aback with this temple and are here for the spectacle more than the homage. Pointing fingers, jaws agape they are in shock. Mothers attempt to calm their crying children who are as frightened as any unsuspecting person would be surrounded by scurrying rodents. The locals and devotees take this more seriously- the rats here are well cared for, given milk and considered sacred.

A man prostrates himself across the floor in prayer while a ceremonial service takes place inside the main temple.

And it is said if you see a white mouse, then it will bring good luck.

(my camel, Kaliya)

Jaisalmer is even more of a desert city

There’s camel safaris, desert villages with simple house/huts and the Jaisalmer fort attraction of ornately carved old haveli architecture. I don’t think many of us correlate India with camels and a desert, but India has them! For about $12 USD took a sunset camel tour into the Thar Desert through Shahi Palace Hotel ( read my review on Tripadvisor)- it was given by The Camel Man. By jeep I was taken through a bouncy ride to a desert village, where I met with a larger group and we mounted our camels and made our way to the desert. When in the desert, the camel man and his family cooked us some snacks and chai as we watched the sun disappear into the dunes. (A unique desert observation- cooking pots and plates are cleaned with sand vs. water)

when we take a rest stop, I discover a little scarab beetle busy pushing this nugget
with its hind legs (it seems like everyone here labors to make life work)

R and I went back to our hotel, had candlelit dinner at the rooftop restaurant and hung out for hours under the stars with the Mali brothers & family that owns the hotel.

At night, the Shahi rooftop showed a wonderful view of the Jaisalmer fort! The walls are lit up at night making the fort look golden. Alcohal was generously offered “on the house” or ‘on the rooftop’,lending the night an even more diffused glow.