About GRRRL TRAVELER

Christine is a Camera Operator & Producer for reality TV in North America. She enjoys photography, writing, creating art and traveling off-the-beaten path to remote countries and lifestyles she never thought she'd explore.
Website: http://www.grrrltraveler.com
GRRRL TRAVELER has written 383 articles so far, you can find them below.


Festival time in Delhi with friends

Regina & Sandeep in front of giant Ramlila dolls that will be burnt as part of the festivities

 

I’ve hired a driver for a day to see Delhi.

For 700Rs (a little over $10 and equal to a OW cab trip from Soho to my apt in Hell’s Kitchen ) this is a bargain! Both Sandeep and Regina are joining me for the day. Sandeep offered his car for this, but I declined. Also, it’s Regina’s last day to sightsee Delhi. We need to see this city!

Tourist sights: Lotus Temple, Hanumayun’s Tomb & Quatab Minar (both to drop R off), the government sector full of government building & the (more…)

Raj’s Cozy Inn Hotel: A decent budget hotel in Paharganj’s backpacking district

raj's cozy inn paharganj

From the outside, Raj’s Cozy Inn Hotel doesn’t look very inviting. But in Paharganj, Delhi’s budget hotel and backpacker district, most hotel welcome mat come stained as a general standard.

Surprisingly, Raj’s Cozy Inn Hotel is not in Lonely Planet’s Guide to India. I found this hotel because the two hotels that were in my guidebook, Hotel Namaskar and Smyle Inn, were fully booked. Hotel Namaskar, referred me to RCI,  just around the corner. The hotel itself is smaller with less rooms on each floor, but it was a newer hotel.

The lobby and rooms were clean and bright. My room was fairly spartan-  a double-sized mattress  w/ fan, TV and western style bathroom- but it (more…)

Delhi Metro, an Indian SIM & Making New Friends

delhi metro
On the delhi metro

Back in Delhi. This time around (post scam tour), I am CONVINCED I will make it better!

 

Getting an Indian SIM

I met R at the Vonnage store in Connaught Place. We needed to report that the SIM cards Regina had purchased for us were NOT working and we’ve been without use of our phones since. The store gave us the run-around & it’s true that anything dealing with the purchase of SIM’s in (more…)

Lessons of a first-time Solo Traveler in India

Tuesday, Oct 7, 2008: Delhi

Back in the U.S., when I was on the road for MTV, I had a GPS, Hertz rental car, a mobile phone with internet access, a 4-5 star hotel with meal stipends and a support office back home working 24/7 for my minute travel questions. Safe to say, I’ve been spoiled a bit.

Here in India, I’m completely on my own– being far from familiar faces, I’ve no tour guides for help; no shoulder to cry on when things go wrong.

When you’re on your own for the first time in a developing country and you don’t have all the conveniences and safe glass bubble partitions protecting you from the outside world, what do you do?

 

1. Allowing yourself to trust strangers when you travel.

Your mom probably told you to never trust strangers. Well, when you’re alone, often, a stranger is all you have.

Traveling solo is the quickest way to learn how to make friends out of strangers as locals and fellow travelers are your only option for conversation and advice. While this can feel scary and a dangerous gamble, being a foreigner in foreign country, I am reliant upon them. What alternate choice am I given? In these cases I realize, I also have to utilize good street smarts and rely on my intuition to tell me when something isn’t feeling right. (more…)

Ghat Life in Varanasi

varanasi ghats
On the ghats of Varanasi

Today is my Rest day

It is my last day in Varanasi. I will let the Spirit of Varanasi guide me to where she wants and I humbly obey. Hopefully, she’s a bit more seductive and a little less buffeting this time.

First, the Spirit tells me to laze in the clean sheets of my ahhhhh AC palace. I enjoy time off from the heat, the stink, the cows and the scams. I hang out to the cafe patio, have a nice Thali meal (aka a dish comprised of small samplings of different curries, yogurt -for cooling- and rice) and spend time on the internet looking for a hotel in Delhi.

(more…)

Varanasi’s Rawest Stains: Will you Love it or Hate it?

varanasi city
Varanasi cityL Will you love it or hate it?

They say travelers who visit Varanasi either, love or hate it.

The sentiments about this city is that strong. Powerful. Extreme.

Navigating from my guesthouse and making my way through the maze of homes, shops, vendors, temples,.. I must have eyes all around me. The streets here are stained with beggars, cows in the middle of the street blocking your path, stray dogs sunbathing where they choose, huge cow patties and smears, the smell of piss from outdoor communal urinals and shop owners accosting you at every corner to “Buy! Buy! (more…)

Varanasi’s Holy & Humorous Underbelly Tour

uay
Uday

Sunday, Oct 5, 2008. Varanasi

As raw as Varanasi seems, there’s a humor to it. It  takes a while to find, but if you do, you might just fall in love with this city.

 This is something a fellow backpacker, a U.K. gent, told me on my first day in Varanasi after the initial culture shock had settled into me and I was contemplating getting the next flight back to Delhi. I’m glad I remembered what he said because I remember it to this day and this is the best way I can explain Varanasi to others.Afterall, what can you possibly find funny about a polluted city, dirty and raggedy streets occupied by lazy cows, dodging (more…)

Durga Puja Festival in Varanasi

durga
Goddess Durga Photo Credit: josephalmighty.multiply.com

 

I’m here during festival season!

What is festivals season to India but bright colors, lights, giant floats, ceremonies and the twitter of excitement.  The celebration is Durga Puja (‘puja’ or ‘pooja’ meaning ‘worship’). The Hindu Goddess Durga is the goddess of power and the mother of all female deities (more info here). For ten days, Durga tents and (more…)

Sunrise on the Ganges & Burning Bodies

ghat boats
ghat boats ©christine kaaloa

Sunday, Oct 5, 2008. Varanasi

As an ancient Holy City, Varanasi (formerly called Benares) is devoted to the Hindu god, Lord Shiva.

The god Shiva is known as the destroyer and transformer. In Sanskrit, he’s known as ‘the auspicious one‘, destroying evil, ignorance, and death. He also maintains the cycle of life because his destruction of evil, clears the path for renewal and growth. Many Shiva devotees make (more…)

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