magazine

Inside an Indian ashram

Filed under India, Kerala / Karnataka by Christine Ka'aloa on June 2, 2011 at 8:55 am {18 comments}

At 6 AM. the morning fog was lifting off the lake. Devotional music poured joyously over the loudspeaker of a neighboring temple and echoed eerily, as fly by birds bore life to the serene setting. Sitting in silence I felt the sun spreading its rays across my body with an exquisite orange and gold. I inhaled.

OM.

Kerala was a perfect escape from the heat, haggling, piss-perfumed stains and madness I know as India. Lush green foliage and forest, the Keralan coast was degrees cooler and more welcoming. I’d seen the film Eat Pray Love and told myself I’d have no aspirations to it. Still, an epiphany was coming through– that there were spots in India which could be peaceful, clean, beautiful and serene!

Universities, nice roads, lush forestry, posh and brightly colored mansions backed by Saudi money all seemed to say – Hey, this state’s got money! Yes, “God’s own country” (as the saying goes) was truly rich.
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Visiting your local Indian community theater

Filed under India, Kerala / Karnataka by Christine Ka'aloa on May 7, 2011 at 6:22 am {7 comments}

I’d spent the day circling the off-beat town of Gokarna, like a worn path of a merry-go-round. Boredom was closing in, threatening to seal me in like a concrete tomb. What to do when the town’s temples are closed to foreigners and you’re not into beaches?

Enter Gokarna’s local community theater.

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Love Letter #11: Life is a Stage in Gokarna

Filed under Kerala / Karnataka, Love Letter Postcards by Christine Ka'aloa on April 28, 2011 at 1:34 am {7 comments}

Local community theater with seats being sold at 30, 40 and 50 rupees (Gokarna, India)

Dear Love,

Life is an Indian stage. When does the rehearsal end and the real show begin? Heroine, damsel in distress, drifting gypsy, lost soul or adventurous pioneer? Who am I today?

I witness many stories unfold around me. Various characters and scenarios emerge in seemingly chaotic frenzy. Staring Indians, weaving taxi drivers, stubbornly slow cows and backpacking travelers cross my path stitching me into their story, as if I’m either a part or byline in their story. The fruit seller won’t take my torn ruppee and looks at me as if I were a scamming tourist. But angelic smiles and help or kindness from locals brings a renewed faith in mankind. A cup of coffee on a shared table or a conversation with fellow travelers in the guesthouse lobby, can easily turn into short-term company. I may plan my sightseeing itinerary, but I never know how the play will turn out until the end of the day. Welcome to my theater!

Improvisation and script. Solo and group travel. A fear of the unknown and the thrill of adventure. The curtain is open.

I feel like I’m still rehearsing.

Do I know my story yet? Who am I?

Wandering,

GRRRL

Love Letter #10: Beware of monkeys in Hampi

Filed under India, Kerala / Karnataka by Christine Ka'aloa on April 5, 2011 at 3:30 pm {5 comments}

: Hampi (Karnataka) India

Dear Love,

In India, there are temples dedicated to Hanuman- the Monkey God- a revered deity, symbol of great strength, perseverance and devotion. He is the perfect hero. But in reality, monkeys in India can be cunning animals, rascal tricksters and… scoundrel thieves!

At daybreak, after pedaling 25 minutes on a crappy rental bicycle, I slogged up the steep and narrow staircase (572 steps!) to the highest peak of Hampi‘s Monkey Temple (photos here). I wanted to see the sunset, look out at the city’s ancient ruins and meditate on my journey.

Midway, I came to a hoodlum monkey sitting on the stone walls. He looked down at me like a foreboding gatekeeper, barring my ascent to heaven.

We locked eyes. He looked at my backpack. In a flash, I knew what would unfold…

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