A few of weeks ago, when I tweeted I was undergoing a job interview in Korea, I got a response from Dave of The Longest Way Home about doing a post on ‘Surviving a job interview in Korea’.

At first, I laughed at the idea and then later, I thought…well, why not? 

“K******** University wants you to contact them ASAP about a job position. Please call them; they are a very good university.”

That was the message I got from Eun-Hyung, my Korean co-teacher, last April in India.  It was a university job I had applied for long before I left Korea. The position started March 1st and it was for a full-time lecturer in the Media Arts department, teaching Video and Animation. At the time however, my commitment was travel and my Yoga TTC program, so I’d written them to keep me in mind for future openings.

They did.

But when you’re hobbling solo through India with dust, heat and craze at your back, the last thing you want to respond to life beyond traveler’s overwhelm. Reluctantly, I dropped the ball.

This past November rolled around and the university contacted me, again.  This time, by email.  There had been many candidates vying for the job; but they were looking for the right person.  They were convinced I was the one.

This time, the timing was perfect.

Can you get a  job teaching something besides English?

Most foreigners in Korea teach English.  As a foreigner, getting a job offer to teach a specialty aside from English is unlikely.  Not impossible. It’s just not a job that you’ll find commonly posted for non-Koreans. Finding a position, which allowed me to teach my skill of expertise (video & media arts) was a rare instance. I’d still be teaching in English in a way, but as a prerequisite studio course the focus was split.

What makes a good candidate?

I won’t profess to know what makes a good candidate for a university job, since I already failed two university job interviews. Could be appearance, qualifications, degree background or whether you can balance a ball on your nose. With my recruiting university, their “right candidate”, fell order like this:

•  1.  The ‘right’ schooling (my graduate school in the U.S. was known and well-aligned with their school)
•  2.  Impressive career background (I had a background in Television, Video Production and the Arts)
•  3.  A year’s experience of teaching in Korea
•  4.  A fantastic phone referral from my co-teacher.

What happens on your first interview with a Korean college?

For Korean colleges, the first interview is to win department approval. But when Korea’s not sure if they want you, they make you jump through the hoops of ‘song and dance’.  You gotta sell yourself.

Here’s some of the things I’ve had to do for other colleges:

1. Prepare and perform a 5 minute lesson plan for a mock class (you may or may not advance notice for preparation)
2. Interview in-person.
3. Be ready to answer questions, such as: 

Why you want to teach English in Korea?
Why you think you’d be a good candidate if your background isn’t in teaching or English? 
How would you handle a class in which some students know absolutely no English?
How would you deal with students who are unmotivated to learn?

How do universities interview you when you’re their favorite candidate?

When Korea knows they want you, it’s like being recruited as a star athlete. No tryout or audition. You don’t have to sell them on why you should get their vote. They already know. 

Thus, I was able to do a Skype interview with the department and was given one question.  The next day I received an email acceptance letter, then handed to the administration office for the process of collecting extra documents such as proof of work, credits, etc…

Rather than be cocky however, a year in Korea conditioned me to err on the side of safety. With Korea, there are many “surprise reveals” at the last-minute.

How to read when Korean universities are silent?

Westerners have a tendency to think of silence as a sign of ‘disinterest’.  For Koreans, silence is like waiting at a traffic signal. At any moment the light could turn green, so you keep your foot hovered over the gas pedal.

For some time, all was quiet. Aside from knowing I was their favorite candidate, I didn’t know much else, about my competition or the position. Salary, housing, vacation time, hours of in-class teaching vs studio time, extra responsibilities of the department… the terms of employment weren’t given to me nor was I receiving answers for my query.

An email arrived on January 3rd stating that my second interview would take place on January 12th with the head of the university… in Korea. Five or six other candidates were CC’d on the email, as well. This was my first time making it to the second round. 

Wait. Rewind.

Interview in Korea?  …In 9 days?!

A round trip ticket to Korea, hotel and transportation… all paid for by the university.

Life was moving faster than I could digest it. Free trip to Korea? I felt weighted. I still didn’t know the terms of employment and within that pocket of silent wait, doubt entered my mind and I drafted alternate plans for 2012. Really good ones! A speedy return to Korea was starting to lose its focus. I was starting to feel dazed by my surrounding decisions.

Knowing I may ultimately need to change my dates, I booked a flight with Korean Airlines. I’d used them before and had to change my flight, so I know their service is top-notch. They won’t charge you a fee if you have to change your flight! No change fees, free in-flight meals, individual TV sets, great hospitality plus two free luggage check-in pieces! Airlines don’t get any better than Korean Air!

When I stepped off the plane, two curious-looking gentlemen greeted me– Prof T.H.L.  a young, quirky-looking video professor, fluent in English and Professor P., a kind and soft-spoken professor and head of the department. Tired from the long flight and lack of sleep, I mustered the enthusiasm for a greeting.We chatted in the car; and I realized they were immediately likeable.

The two men drove me to The Prince Hotel to check in. They walked me to my room, then bid me a goodnight, informing me they’d come to pick me up for the interview in the morning.

The second interview: meeting the President

One of the most prestigious universities in the city, the first campus was impressively large and upright. As one of the top ten most beautiful colleges in Korea and film location of K-drama Boys over Flowers (it was the elite high school, where the top 1% of the wealthiest Korean families attend), it definitely earned its model ranking. It’s red brick western style buildings stood regal, commanding a sophisticated academic presence, reminiscent of an Ivy league college. With soft rolling hills and tightly manicured lawns, the campus held a distinct air of brevity and sunshine. A practically squealed in my seat, driving through it!

We drove up to the President’s building. It stood tall, quiet, intimidating, academic.  I entered the office, flanked by my two department guardians. Foreign candidates of other departments, filtered into the waiting room, wearing razor-sharp suits; each, accompanied by a Korean professor or dean from the hiring department. A Berliner sat next to his Korean attendant for the German department, a Filipino woman sat in wait next to her Korean counterpart for the nursing department…

Then it occurred to me… this interview was IT. I was IT and the only. And there were no backup candidates to replace me if I decided not to take the job. This interview was for each department to get Presidential approval!

Inside the president’s office, the nerves melted away my surroundings. Separated by a long wooden table, three distinguished Korean men sat across me. The president looked like a Korean Roger Moore. Dignified. Neither smiling nor frowning. 

What was my career experience previous to teaching?

What was my proudest career achievement?

Why do I like Daegu?…

Frankly, I’m bad at job interviews. I don’t give smart answers. I give honest ones and my brain was like a waffle… solid, but spongy with very shallow potholes. I was sure I made a bad impression.  After my interview, Professor P disappeared in to the President’s Office. In five minutes, he emerged victorious. I got the job and the two professors whisked me off to celebrate the victory with a sushi lunch!

Finally, the Terms of Employment

Usually, knowing your salary and benefits comes before the last interview, but meeting with the administration was our next stop.  There, the head administrator laid out the terms before me. They were sparkly. Great salary, paid vacation of 3 months, 4 weekly classes, free housing, a requirement of one annual solo exhibition of my work for teacher’s performance. Paving a road to a career in academia came with a handsome package…

If I chose to take that road.

 Meeting with the department staff

The following week I was still in Korea, so I was invited to meet the department staff. Four male professors welcomed me in the faculty lounge and gave me a grand tour around the Media Arts building. We ended with a friendly chat over coffee at a café. This introduction was different from my first welcome to Korea. I really experienced that Korean hospitality I used to hear others talk about.

Everything in the picture appeared perfect!  A prime job at a university, working alongside cool co-teachers, my very own office (with a door), inspiring future artists as well as, developing my own work towards a solo exhibition. It wasn’t Seoul, but maybe that wouldn’t matter. My ideas were racing with lightning speed and excitement. This could work fabulously!

But just one thing burdened me … those alternate plans gave me a sharp tug.

Countdown to a final decision

I asked for a week to make my decision. Start date is March 1 and if I accepted the job, the visa process had to start on the spot. Everyone had hoped for a confirmation sooner, but sometimes, even perfect choices doesn’t make the decision-making process any easier.

Please don’t assume to know my answer just yet.

Actually, this post isn’t really about surviving a university job interview. It’s about surviving a decision.

 
How to get to Korea:

Who to fly with:

Korean Airlines (website) 
Free in flight meals, personal tv sets, care package (slippers, tootbrush and toothpaste, water bottle), 2 free luggage and no change fees.

Rental phones in Korea: 

SK Telecom Roaming (website)
Low Fee of 3,000w/day+ low rates on useage  (texts or calls)
*SK telecomm can be found in Incheon Airport, Gimpo Airport and Busan Airport.

Where to stay in the city:

Prince Hotel Daegu (website)
1824-2, Daemyeong 2-dong, Nam-gu, Daegu
Ph :82-53-650-5217
Less than 5 minutes walk from Myeongdok subway station, Line 1.

How to apply for a university job?

Each university has their own prerequisites. Some want a TOEFL certification, a degree in English or Business or 2+ years teaching at a college level, etc… Most require an MFA degree for consideration.

In general, here’s what to expect:

1. Submit cover letter, photo and resume
2. Fill out an application (in one case, I had an application which was 8 pages full of essay questions!). Sometimes, they’ll request you use their online application and just a head’s up– Korea uses mostly PC and Internet Explorer (too bad to Mac and Safari/Firefox users). 
3. Submit transcripts, copy of passport and documents via mail (or via email, if the school is cool)

Work hard, play hard?…  Maybe that is the Korean motto, because it seems when Korea throws a winter festival, it goes all out!

This January, I visited the Hwacheon Mountain Trout Festival. Initially, I thought the festival was purely about the spectacle of fishing for sancheoneo (or wild trout) through a hole in the ice like an eskimo or even fishing by bare hand. But when I got there, what I got was a surprising peek into how Koreans enjoy good old-fashioned winter fun.

I took the weekend bus from Seoul. Swishing past the Korean landscape for three hours at a mere 13,000 Won wasn’t a bad way to go.  Hwacheon county is in the Gangwon province, which is north of Seoul, running parallel to the Korean Demilitarization Zone. Being up north, Hwacheon gets winter’s first freeze; and thus, the river chills over with a thick layer of glass frost.

When I arrived at the festival, I wasn’t ready for its giiiiiiinormity. Hwacheon River was frozen acres and acres over and settled on it, was a winter  carnival, stretching farther than the eye could see. Activity-wise, it seemed there was something for everyone: Snowmobile rides, ice sledding and sleighing, mini ice hockey, ice race car driving, ziplining, skating,  eolgomiseong (tunnels, slides), snow sculptures (which I couldn’t find), etc… and yes, trout fishing.

Tickets were sold under a big tent and you had to pay admission for entry into each roped off event.  I got there a little late, so I didn’t buy any tickets into the events, but even being a spectator was fun.

 
Here’s how the sleigh ride is done if you’re by yourself. (a bit humorous)

 Korean variety acts

So far I’ve noticed many types of outdoor variety acts at the festivals I’ve been to. Performers dress up and perform a comedy like skit, then sing to the crowd. The singing is usually pretty good. Watch the short video below if you’re interested.

Catching as much trout as you can.

The festival is really known for its sancheoneo (aka wild trout) fishing, where participants catch as much fish as they can. If you want to fish, festival vendors sell small plastic fly swatter-like things, which are fishing rods with a string attached to a hook. Buy an entrance pass into the festival area and find a dugout hole in the ice to fish in. Some people set up mats to kneel on, while patiently watching for trout. Others bring fold out stools and chairs to sit on while yet other decide to have a family picnic on the ice.

Short video (2min) showing the festival

Believe me, though the fishing area was large, the holes were many and equipment and tactics appear as simple as dropping your line in a hole in the ice, not everyone was lucky to score a fish.

Then again, the thrill of the day was just being there and enjoying the wonderful spectacle of a winter carnival on ice!

 Read a Joongang daily article about the festival here.

Getting to Hwacheon:

Below directions from the official festival website www.narafestival.com

By foot:

From Hwacheon Bus Terminal, the festival venue is 10 minutes walk.

By Bus

Chuncheon-bound express buses can be caught at the following bus terminals:
   Seoul-Dongseoul/Sangbong Terminal, Busan, Daegu, Gimpo Airport, Incheon Airport, Incheon, Anyang, Jeonju, Cheonan, Weonju
At Chuncheon, transfer must be to Hwacheon Bus.

From Seoul:

Hwacheon-bound Bus
  Take express bus for Hwacheon at Dongseoul Terminal.
  15 buses daily, travel time: 2 hours 40 minutes(06:20~7:25P), Fare: 12,600 won

Take express bus  for Hwacheon at Sangbong Terminal
  13 buses daily, travel time: 2 hours 30 minutes(06:00~18:20), Fare: 10,100 won

From Chuncheon Bus Terminal
  Take express bus bound for Hwacheon at Chuncheon Terminal.
  Bus hours: 06:50 am ~ 21:20 pm / every 30 minutes , Travel time: 50minutes, Fare: 4,000 won

From Daegu
  Take express bus to Chuncheon
  Bus hours: 8:30A  -7P , Travel time: 4 hrs , Fare:  17200won  25500won   28000won
  Then at terminal, transfer to bus to Hwacheon (there are 2 bus terminals, not more than 7 minutes apart). Bus to Hwacheon is at the main  terminal next to Emart.

By Train

There’s a Korail train to Chuncheon. Get off at Chuncheon station and go to the bus stop outside across the street of the train station to catch a Hwacheon-bound bus that leaves the Chuncheon Bus Terminal every 30 minutes.

 I’m not a toilet connoisseur or nitpicker, but I do have varying degrees of tolerance. Smell, appearance, technology, leftovers, size, etc… whenever it pushes my standard into a level of discomfort, it makes my list.

Andong, why is your bus station toilet making my World’s Worst Toilet list?…

Your ajumma was vigilantly cleaning…

Your standard facilities seem okay.

The inside of the toilet doesn’t seem so off-putting, no horrible stench and the pull-chain flush, while ancient, at least worked.

But the problem is space.

My whole squat fits “over” the size of that toilet- my knees are nearly touching the pipes!  I’d hate to imagine how I’d be if I were 6 feet tall. There were no hooks to hang bags on (and honestly, there’s no way I’m going to put it on the floor), so my backpack was on my lap, squeezed tightly against my chest *because it didn’t fit the space when it was perched on my back*.  This was the most awkward and uncomfortable squat I’ve experienced in a while.

Thank God my squatting legs are getting stronger.

How many times can I look at Buddhas and temples?

Ordinarily, my tolerance isn’t high for seeing the same things over and over.

Variation is key.

For instance, living in Korea if you’ve seen one buddhist temple, you’ve pretty near seen them all. The architecture doesn’t change much and the buddhas wear the look of staunch, Fu Man Chu looking Confucianist.  Thailand is different. Whether it’s a hundred Buddhas lined up in a row, statuettes in varied pose symbolizing different days of the week or a giant Buddha reclined in daydream, I’m pretty bedazzled… and they all wear the warm smiles of the Thai.

Sukhothai vs Ayutthaya: How does it compare?

Both, Sukhothai Historical Park and Ayuttaya city are UNESCO world heritage sites, featuring grand ancient ruins. Ayutthaya‘s location (info on getting there here) makes it a convenient day trip if you’re in Bangkok. The ruins feel more varied in the way of chedis, wats and palaces, with a few grand buddhas sculptures to make you gawk.  But Ayutthaya is also a city and you’ll need to hire a taxi to get around to all the different sites, which have individual admission fees. It’s easier if you can go with friends to split taxi costs and it will take an entire day.

Ayutthaya’s line of buddhas

Sukhothai Historical Park is in Central Thailand, between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Though you’ll probably need to book a stay overnight in Sukhothai, the park is  compact  and split into two zones- North and South- which require only two separate admissions. You can sight see the park from a bike or tram, making it a leisurely expedition. The overall theme of this park are lakes, massive Buddhas and chedis. As I’m more of a fan of Buddhas and not architectural ruins, Sukhothai was my favorite.

Sukhothai means Dawn of Happiness.

Sukhothai Historical Park is approx. 30 minutes from the bus station and budget guesthouses in New Sukhothai. Acres of wats (aka temples) and monument ruins unroll in peaceful contemplation, gloriously preserved against the crumble of time. The park’s 193 ruins commemorate a 13th century kingdom, which was once the capital of Thailand.

Taking the local songthaeuw to the park

Boarding a blue songthaeuw from New Sukhothai, I was just in time to hit peak after-school traffic. Loads of students filed into the truck, with some hanging onto a bar and step out on the back. A fare collector maneuvered her way around the crowd collecting fare. The cost: a little under 50 cents. Each time a passenger wanted to signal a stop for the driver , they pressed a buzzer to a bell. I didn’t know where the hell the push button for that buzzer was, even though it kept sounding, but fortunately, the park was the last stop on my route.

The songtheauw dropped me off near one of the exits of the park. The bike rental shops weren’t far.

Bike rentals are perhaps the best way to get around as they’re inexpensive (about 40-60Baht/day …a little under $2) and you can take your time. Another alternative is to take a guided tram tour.

I grabbed a bike and pedalled my way through the park, discovering the grandeur of spire chedis and massive meditating Buddhas.

Wat Mahathat’s star role

On occasion, I’ve had the fun of running into film shoots when I travel. Fortunately or unfortunately (depending on how you look at it) this prevented me from actually setting foot upon one of the most famous wat ruins in the park, Wat Mahathat. When I arrived, a Thai production company was filming a Muay thai kick-boxing scene. I wonder how much location fees run for shooting on UNESCO relics like this?

 Getting to Old Sukhothai Park:

A songthaeuw (take the blue one) or tuk-tuk is your best vehicle to the park. From New Sukhothai, it takes approx 30 minutes to get to the park. The songthaeuw stops running at either 5 or 6P; a bit before the park closes. After that, your only option back to you guesthouse/hotel are tuk-tuks.

Getting to Sukhothai:

via Train and bus:
Take the train to Phitsanulok (approx 6-7 hours) off of the Bangkok-Chiang Mai main line. At Phitsanulok station, take the local bus (runs 7AM-7PM; approx. 1 hour) to Sukhothai bus station in New Sukhothai. It may seem the boonies but there’s a handful of budget guesthouses located walking distance across the field or via tuk-tuk ride into town.

VIP Buses:
Chiang Mai-bound buses (to/from Sukhothai) are approx 4-6 hours.
Bangkok-bound buses have AC, with spacious reclined seats and may offer meals, a movie and rest stops. Duration  6-7 hours to Bangkok’s Mochit station.

This post comes a bit belated, but in lieu of my recent visit to Korea, I have to do it for laughs. When I was teaching in Korea, there was something in my Korean public school johns. Take a look at the photos below and guess what it was…

Word on the street is that you’ll get the best scuba diving deals in Southeast Asia.

I spent two hours on Khao San Road in Bangkok, bouncing from agent to agent, searching for a diving package to ring in my first solo birthday on the road .  Finally, my four-day PADI open water diving certification program was booked at the jaw-dropping price of $320 (apologies, earlier I quoted $250 but was off). Travel gossip didn’t lie.

I’m not lucky enough to be one of those travel bloggers to score sponsored press trips nor am an ingenue haggler, but I don’t scold myself. I make up for it by being a queen hunter of basement bargains and cheap day tours of reasonably good quality!

What did my package include? Round trip transportation to the island of Ko Tao, a 4-night resort stay and 4 days of licensed training, confined water dives and 4 open water dives to a maximum of 18 meters. Sounds like a lot, doesn’t it?

Ko Tao is an island off of the south eastern coast of Thailand, known mostly for diving and snorkeling.

A popular tourist destination for travelers and local Thai, it was a three hour ferry ride to the island. Known as Turtle Island for its shape and the fact it’s a breeding ground for turtles, the island is quite small. There are only two main towns (Mae Haad and Sairee) and one main strip of road dotting the island’s western shoulder ( I rented a motorbike for a day and the ride takes about 2 hours to complete). It’s an enjoyable ride and you can stop off at small shops and markets along the way. Mae Haad is the capital and port town and it’s stocked with everything you’ll need. Sairee is the peaceful and romantic sister town with a chill vibe, beach side bars and resorts and warm nightlife .

My birthday prize package

My package said “resort accommodations”, but holy cow, for the price I paid, I didn’t honestly expect it!  Arriving at Sairee’s Coral Grand Resort, I was floored by the luxury before me. It sure looked grand.

A pool for diving lessons

Sairee Beach connects you with neighboring resorts, seaside bars and ultimately,
Sairee town, where there are restaurants, stores, nightlife and my favorite, 7-11. The walk to town by beach or road is approximately  8-10 minutes.

Rooms were booked full when I arrived. They didn’t have the non- air conditioned “cheapie” room I reserved, so the desk manager upgraded me to an A.C. room, while gesturing a secret “Shhh..” to me.  Score! Dang girl, my birthday present to myself was starting to look up.

My room came complete with a queen-sized bed, free wi-fi, air condition, full amenities and an outdoor balcony. It was purrr-fect pampering and rest from my road of solitude.

PADI diving certification is the hub to meeting international travelers

By the time I unpacked and had lunch, it was 2PM.

I met my group at the resort’s dive center, Coral Grand Divers, for an in-class orientation, where we were given instruction manuals and shown a video. The center buzzed with training groups led by a crew of instructors. It was like a  U.N. factory for divers. Impressive! Manuals were in most major languages and the dive instructors heralded from various parts of the world. If you spoke a language other than English, the program would find a dive instructor to help you. Initially, we had a French girl in our global group (of Spanish, German, Chinese and Burmese), but when they discovered English n’était pas her strength, she got her own private French-speaking instructor!

Incidentally, I even saw a Korean group led in Korean!

The dive center, where we have our in-classroom classes.

Day Two

8:00 am:

Suit up for dive lessons in the pool! First day of our confined water dive, we familiarized ourselves with the scuba gear, took a 15 minute treading water test and learned how to deal with underwater emergencies, like recovering our mouthpiece, clearing our mask of water, learning hand signals and helping a buddy in emergency situations.

“The ocean is a foreign environment. It’s not our natural environment, even though we’ve spent the first stages of our life in water.”

Foreign.

From my first time traveling solo to living abroad or moving my lifestyle to different cities and states, I’ve experienced many types of “foreign”.  I’ve always adapted with enthusiasm. But cities and countries have limits. Could I adapt to being submerged below sea level, surviving off of an oxygen tank, in an endless ocean?

Afraid of Jaws (who wasn’t traumatized by that film?).

A Hawaiian who can’t swim (uh, I’ll explain that later).

Perhaps I was meeting an upgraded challenge?

Foreign- Foreign.

“You may start off feeling odd and scared by it, but it’s something you’ll learn to adapt to,” Kevin reassured us.

As our Irish instructor, he fell in love with diving, picked up and moved from Ireland to dive and teach. That was over 10 years ago.

Main points to remember about diving:

Some of them initially sound terrifying, if you’re an over-thinker like me. But once I got in the pool, my adapting began.

1. Never hold your breath while you’re diving.
  I tried coughing and sneezing in my mask with the regulator in. Not a problem.
2. Equalize (swallow or pinch your nose and blow) a lot when you’re descending; so as to avoid water pressure from damaging your ears.
3. Don’t ascend too quickly
4. Beware of trigger fish. *They’re small but if you dive in their territory, they might attack you.
5. Rule of the sea: nothing will attack you unless it feels threatened.

Day Three

7:30 am:  Our first two open water dives (aka in the ocean)! Maximum depth: 12 meters.

Driven to the port in Mae Haad, we board a boat which takes us out to two of the twelve dive sites around Ko Tao.

Captain of the boat!

On the boat, Kevin prepped us to the game plan, with a string of last-minute reminders. He wanted to make sure we remembered safety.

But my big question: Sharks. Kevin’s answer: They don’t like the taste of humans. If you were to be accidentally bitten, it’d probably spit you out!

Good enough answer for me. 

I jump off the boat, swam out and grabbed hold of the anchor’s rope. Regulator in mouth, I was breathing like Darth Vadar and descending… Blub, blub, blub.

Clearing my mask was a problem. Water kept getting in my mask and despite my freakout (post will follow shortly), I survived.

I’ve had childhood dreams of swimming over watery worlds and breathing underwater.

This was a literal dream come true. Hovering  over palatial coral reefs or exploring it at eye level is a trip.  The coral reefs were like towers with brilliantly colored sea anemone, sitting like patches of grass. The ocean bed was a slow shifting desert. We saw fishes and eels. At one point, Kevin gave the signal “Shooter“, while pointing to the infamous trigger fish, we had learned to avoid. It  was hiding in a cave.

After our exploration dive, we went to a new spot, a cove where we ran our emergency drills again, while kneeling on the ocean floor. A bit boring in comparison to our earlier dive, but still thrilling to be out in the open waters.

Day Four

7:30 am: Dives #3 and #4 at the maximum depth 18 meters.

Similar routine. We started with a fun dive of exploring the reef and waters. I practiced more of my hovering skills. Hovering is the ability to swim/float at a consistent level. Your lowering and rising in the water is controlled by the amount of breath in your lungs.

Then we moved dive locations to do emergency drill practice… again. But its part of the requirements for licensing. This time however, it was more fun. We had a videographer to shoot our dive. He wanted us to do crazy things underwater.  I got to walk on my hands, do funny dance moves with a pair of sunglasses, do sommersaults and blow smoke ring bubbles. It was a blast!

I am a graduated and licensed open water diver!

I did it! Spending my first birthday alone went off remarkably well!  I lived my dream of breathing underwater (in waking life) and though I celebrated my birthday on the solo road, it will go down in my history as one of my most memorable, profound and proud moments.

Not to mention, after experiencing the magic of scuba diving,  I’m now a fan!  Maybe, I’ll start booking travel according to dive locations. We’ll see!

Big Mahalos to all the agents on Khao San Road, Coral Grand Resort,  Coral Grand Divers and my dive instructor, Kevin for a memorable stay and fantastic dive experience!

Some recommendable Ko Tao dive links and information:

My Dive Instructor:
Kevin Mcloughlin
kev.mcloughlin@gmail.com | Tel: 0066 (0) 844424004
Website: Pressure Drop Divers

Coral Grand Divers
www.coralgranddivers.com

Asia Divers Resort (Sairee Koh Tao)
www.asia-divers.com

Ban’s Diving Resort
Haad Sairee, Koh Tao
Ph: +66 (0) 7745-6466
www.bansdivingresort.com

Note:  The abridged version of this article will be published in print at Daegu Compass, February 2012 issue.

A three-day trek in the mountains of Chiang Mai, Thailand? Loved it. A rugged and intense workout, it made me feel like I really earned those landscape gems of perfect waterfalls, manicured paddy fields and quaint mountain villages. 

By now, a porcelain bowl in the ground and a bucket of water to flush isn’t so shocking to me. My odds of hitting my shoe when I squirt are 80 out of 100. Yay! I’m getting pretty professional.

A village home stay with an outhouse isn’t horrible in the light of day. But at night with no light? That’s a different story…

Did I mention, this outhouse doubles as the shower too? I spent my first night squatting in the dark and taking a cold water bath by the light of my perched flashlight.

Rugged adventures!  I love them, but feel like I should earn Girl Scout badges for them.

,
I have to admit, I love the Thai train! Compared to India, the bathrooms aren’t nearly as scary. However, I don’t like train bathrooms in general. It’s not about off-putting appearances as it is horrific smells. As clean as the Thai try to be, there’s almost always a tinge of smell or drips of urine lingering from the after effects of sudden jerks, shakes and rattling stops.

Nonetheless, there’s two things I admire Thai trains for…

1) Both, western and Asian squat toilets are available

 Yes, the choice is yours. Princesses like me, can choose to either, rough it or not. Throne or the squat.

Though not pictured, the western toilet is also made of metal and I love that fact. Germs have a shorter life on metal or so I’ve heard…

2) The jet stream bidet hose

The hose you see in the middle of the top photo is the *most blessed* Thai invention. Originally, it’s used as a kind of bidet action; you can hose down your nether parts with it. According to some Thai, this is more efficient and cleaner than using toilet paper.

Do you want to know how I use it? I shoot down toilet seats before I use them! The jet stream on these hoses are so powerful, I have every faith in it to scour off residual drips! Wipe off the remaining water with a wad of toilet paper (you can add hand sanitizer on it if you’re really paranoid) and you’re good to go!

Obviously, you’d want to avoid touching the power hose to any parts of your body and I’d recommending sanitizing hands after handling it.

P.S. Extra brownie points to this john for the extra rolls of toilet paper!

What’s your toilet tricks or worst toilets abroad?

In Bangkok,  all roads may not lead to Rome, but you’ll at least, have many avenues to get there; and each conveyance presents a unique face of Thai urban life! I’ll be frank- one of my absolute loves of Bangkok is it’s transportation.  As a female solo traveler, it’ my magic city of easy independence and I’ve made it my adventure theme park mission, to sample as many of its rides as I can.

10 ways to get around Bangkok (and hopefully avoid traffic):

1. Walking

Sound obvious? There’s more to this than meets the eye! Beware, Bangkok’s pedestrian aisles will seduce the baht right out of you! Bangkok’s two favorite pedestrian diversions are eating and shopping.  Explore Bangkok’s backstreets, while grinding on fried mochi balls and fresh spring rolls from a morning line of food hawker stalls. Slurp piping hot pho on an outdoor table in an alley or buy random trinkets from the street vendors.  The best time to take to foot is in the evening, when the streets unfold into a crazy sidewalk shopping culture. But a word of advice: at night, foot traffic will also be at its worst as locals come out to shop.

Best sidewalks and streets to walk: Khao San Road area and off the BTS Skytrain : Sala Deng, Siam and  Victory Monument.

2. City bus

Bangkok by bus inspires my three “C”s: comfortable, cheap and convenient. Best of all, it offers front row seats to the real Bangkok. Interestingly, this vehicle is seemingly off-the-grid for most tourists, but its a viable and simple way to get around. Just brush up on a few insider tips to catching the city bus first and you’ll be good to go.

Fare: 7 to 22 baht, depending on distance. Fare is collected after you board.
Hours: Day buses run from 5AM to 11Pm; night buses run 24 hours.
Tips: Avoid peak traffic hours and always carry small change, as the fare collectors generally don’t carry change for larger bills.
Information:  Find your bus route number  or go to the BMTA website.

3. Chao Phraya River ferry

If you enjoy boat cruises, the river ferry along the Chao Phraya River is a scenic ride you shouldn’t miss. From the grandeur of gilded wats and glitzy skyscrapers to dilapidated river houses on stilts, you’ll see a different side of Bangkok from its waterways.  The ferry always runs the same route. Unless it’s the Express ferry, it’ll make a stops on both sides of the bank and on each docking station on the line.

This will get you to farther provinces and avert bumper-to-bumper traffic during peak traffic hours. Just a head’s up- the boat can get crowded later in the day and close to closing.

Fare: 10-29 baht, depending on distance and boat type (regular or express). Unlimited day passes are sold at 150 baht.
Fare rates run like the city bus system and are often collected on the boat. Some docks may pose exceptions and collect them before boarding. In either case, after paying you’ll receive a receipt for proof of payment.
Hours: 6:15A to 7P
Information:  Boat types & hours here.  Map of the ferry routes here.

5.   Skytrain and  Subway

In the sweat of Thai heat, flying over the city traffic by Skytrain or zipping underground on the metro, presents an air-conditioned luxury. The BTS Skytrain offers beautiful aerial views over the city, while the MRT subway serves up a no-frills straight shot to your destination. Both are perfect solutions to averting Bangkok’s god awful peak-time traffic!

Fare:  15-40 baht and based on zone. An all-day unlimited card pass is 120 baht. Tickets are sold at kiosk stations and take only coins; you can get change at the nearby information window. The Skytrain issues card tickets, while the subway gives out token tickets.
Hours: 6A- midnight.
Maps here & Cool iPhone app: Bangkok transport map (Free)

6 . Long-tail and khlong boats

The khlongs (aka canals) off the Chao Phraya River hold a waterway life, flavored with river houses and floating markets. Long-tail boats are sightseeing taxis to explore it with. At the floating markets, there are fixed price stations but if you want your own personal hire, you’ll have to bargain with the boat driver.

One thing I haven’t tried yet are the khlong boats (or water taxis) in the inner city. They run 18 kilometers along the Khlong Saen Saep river, making access to and from Siam Square quick and easy. Not to mention, they serve the practical purpose of escaping rush hour traffic.

Fare for long-tail boats: Prices vary as boats can be hired as a group or individually.
Fare for khlong boats: 10-40 baht, based on distance.
Hours: 5:30A-8:30PM
Khlong route information here.

7. Motorbike taxis

What’s the Bangkok scene without these cowboy bandits? These vest-wearing Soi knights skirt through the streets on petrol-filled tanks offering rides. The Thai don’t seem to mind. For locals, men and women alike, this is the perfect way to get to work in a direct shot. Hop on the back of one of these babies and off you go! It’s so common that the Thai have become amazing at riding side-saddle. Watch women sit cross-legged on the back, while talking on the phone or applying makeup.

Lugging a backpack and some bags? No worries. These guys are sure to oblige you and your luggage for the ride. No is not in their vocabulary and they’ll make your bags fit. Who says chivalry is dead?

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8. Tuk-tuks

You go low and they’ll go high; that’s the art of haggling with tuk-tuk drivers. It’s not my favorite ride, especially when there’s cheaper and haggle-free motors to choose from. Still, tourists occasionally like to use them.

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9. Taxis

With Bangkok traffic being the meaner than the L.A. freeway, the taxi is probably the last thing you’ll want to take! On one occasion it took me close to 30 minutes just to move one block! Thankfully, I was on the bus at that time; my baht was still in tact.  But taxis have their moments too. It’s perfect for getting around in the evening, after the river ferry and Skytrainclose.

Hours: 24 hours
Tips: Always make sure your taxi uses a meter.

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10. Trains

By daylight, it’s a regular train, but at night it can transform into a first-rate hotel on wheels! By far, one of my favorite rides, the Thai railway system strives for hospitably, cleanliness and order.   Train stewards patrol the aisle to set up your meal table or to transform your seats into a freshly sheeted berth bed of curtain-drawn privacy. Both, western and asian toilets are in each car and if you want to have a drink or eat in the restaurant car, that’s available also.

Hours: 24 hours
Information: train routes and schedules.

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What is your favorite mode for getting around in Bangkok?

All smiles at Smile Society.

Does budget dollars mean dingy rooms?  From bungalows, boutique hotels, guesthouse resorts and overnight trains… in Thailand you can experience a gamut of chic ways to lay your head or rest on your laurels.  Though budget hostels aren’t as cheap as it used to be; the prices are still pretty good and matched with the Thai aspiration to provide first class hospitality, it’s raised my travel standards considerably. And the design? Well, the Thai can be pretty stylish decorators.

Here’s my top three favorite boutique hostels in Bangkok:

1. Suk 11 (website).
Cost: 500 baht/ single ($16) and up
Location: 3 minutes from the Nana BTS stop.

Tucked away in a side alley of Bangkok’s Nana district, Suk 11 is a getaway from the madness of Bangkok’s streets and Nana’s adult amusement atmosphere. Yet, a hip and happening boutique hostel for backpackers, it bustles with travelers. The foremost thing you’ll notice about Suk11 is it’s fashion. The decor is earthy, with a bit of a jungle-house feel. But turn the corner and you won’t know what to expect next. The hallways sport a New York City- exposed brick design with wooden beam walkways, while the floor lounge areas is a curious Shangri-la filled with odd travel artifacts and memorabilia. The free breakfast spread of assorted fruits, puddings, croissants and jams left me wanting to sample everything! Meanwhile, the outdoor /indoor cafe area patio provides a relaxed way for travelers to connect.

I got a spacious single A.C. room with bathroom ensuite. Oddly, my shower and wash basin were on my outdoor balcony, where light was minimal and you’re fending off bugs in the dark. Though unique, I think it misses the point of a private bathroom; you can’t run naked to your room if you forget your soap and towel. Eventually, I ended up using the community bathroom for my showers. Otherwise, Suk11 is just one of those places that continually beckons your name.

Pros: Wonderful & free continental breakfast. Great location near Nana’s Skytrain stop. Like staying at a funky boutique hotel, 20s-30s crowd, great place to meet fellow travelers. There’s an entertainment/dvd room for those, who actually want to spend some time in front of the tube.
Con: Wifi only in lounge.

2. Lub’d Siam Square (website).
Cost: $17-$30
925/9 Rama 1 Road, Wangmai, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 Thailand
Tel: + 66 (0) 2612 4999 | Fax: +66 (0) 2612 4449
Email: contact.siam@lubd.com
Location: off the Siam Square BTS stop

It’s touted as ‘ “One of the Best Boutique Hostels in the World” by the Guardian‘. But Why?  was the question I used to ask,… until now. Bangkok‘s Lub’d Siam Square (not to be confused with their other location, Lub’d Silom, which isn’t as accessible to public transport) might very well be the hostel dream of every Swedish flashpacker and budding architect with a flair for graphic design. Sleek, trim, minimalistic, futuristic. It doesn’t waste much in IKEA lines, color and curve. Simply stated Lub’d's trendy, urban decor rocks cool and makes you forget you’re in a hostel.  The lounge/lobby area houses a bar/cafe and occasionally holds live entertainment. There’s an elegant outdoor deck which opens to the noisy streets of nearby Siam Square.

Although it is a hostel, it’s one which caters to a traveler’s need for independence. It’s got coin-operated washing machines and if you’re in the dorm, your card key allows you access to a bunk bed with it’s own reading light, plug-in electrical outlet and locker. Bathroom is gender separate and communal; however, each shower has its own private stall and changing area.

Pros: Cool design, free internet useage and wi-fi, open lounge with cafe/bar, outdoor patio area.
Cons: The wifi at the time didn’t work with my iPod and could only be used in the lounge area. 

3. Smile Society  (website)
Cost: $17-$30
130/3-4 Silom Soi 6, Silom Road
Ph: # 6681-442-5800
smilethailand@gmail.com
Location: off the Siam Square BTS stop, it’s an 8 minute walk and tucked into the back of Silom Soi 6

Just 8 minutes off  Siam Square, one of my favorite BTS stops, the Smile Society is sparkling with the fresh scent of “clean”.  Straight out of it’s package, this newly-minted pad carries elegance with a relaxed, harmonious and homey charm. As a home away from home, it’s the type of place you’ll want to drop your backpack and anchor down for a while.

Well-maintained, Smile houses a restaurant which cooks vegetarian food and  a lovely hardwood lounge area with free wifi and computers, coffee/tea on the  second floor. It has a free community washer and dryer, which is shared with house-keeping. Each traveler gets an card key grants you security access into the building and floors and this also operates as your electrical key, to your room and bed outlet. Ms. Bee, who runs the quietly swish joint with her partner is full of helpful advice and generous with her smiles.

Pros:  One of the cleanest and well-run places I’ve stayed at yet! Security is good as each guest is issued a card key to get into the building and upstairs. Has a restaurant next to the lobby which can prepare vegetarian food. Shower stalls provide body soap and shampoo. Cons: Space in some of the dorm rooms can run a little tight.

What are your best Bangkok boutique hostels?