Photo Essay: Escape to the secret village of Muong Ngoi Neua

Muong Ngoi Neua is a beautiful cove of a village, one hour north of Nong Khieuw on the scenic  Nam Ou River, accessible by boat. An authentic Lao village, it sits in seclusion between towering mountains and is a serene haven for frazzled travelers to kick back or launch into trekking. 

Is it a secret? Yes and no. It’s in tourist guidebooks, but it’s strays off-the-beaten path and is not over-run with tourists yet. Here, the Lao lifestyle is clearly chill and simple. The small village has one Buddhist temple, a school, a trekking agency and one worn and dusty main road, tenanted by roosters, dogs, local women and playing children. At night, local men gather around open fires to chat over their day; others, occasionally gather outside the unofficial community TV house to catch a peek of what’s on the tube (basically, one family owns a television set and neighbors come to watch it).

Accommodations and hot showers

For travelers, there’s a small handful of guesthouses and restaurants to choose from. It’s nowhere near the options of Luang Prabang, but it’s still comfortable. I stayed at Rainbow Guesthouse for around $5/night. It’s got spacious rooms, a restaurant and houses a trekking guide.  If your guesthouse says it offers hot showers, I wouldn’t rely on it. Places claim to have it, but it’s an ice-cold reality. Not to worry. At the end of the road @Moon Guesthouse, a Swiss-owned place, runs an inexpensive service of two herbal sauna rooms and hot dip-and-pour showers. Herbal saunas are definitely something to try in Laos and @Moon has travelers lining up!

Electricity and hot showers

Don’t expect to hit your email hard. Electricity and internet are between bare and barely at all minimum. At night, the town runs from one to two electric generators.  The town’s electricity kicks in around 6PM, but one knows when the lights will go out. They usually go out at around 9 PM. Bring a flashlight or buy one at one of the local shops there. Walking back to your guesthouse in the dark is no fun.

What to do in Muong Ngoi Neua

There’s not a lot to do here, but you can easily stay a week or more. If it weren’t for the fact I’d pre-booked a flight back to Thailand, I’d definitely have stayed longer! The village has its local charms and presents an uncomplicated way of life.

There’s a hiking trail from the very southern end of the village, leading out to some caves. It’s a good and long walk along streams, and through forest shrubs and paddy fields. If you keep going, you can reach another village. The path is a bit complicated and tricky though, so be sure to ask for directions before you go. Another option is trekking. Muong Ngoi Neua makes a closer launching spot for treks and the prices for a guide are much cheaper.

I highly recommend visiting here if you get the chance. Do it before it’s no longer a secret!

Short slideshow of life in Muong Ngoi Nuea